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Camellia japonica
The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.4-6
While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
Antioxidant activity
In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).8 Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.9
Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.4
Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.10
Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity
In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.6
Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.11
Cosmeceutical potential
Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.1 The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.12 Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.9
Wrinkle reduction and moisturization
In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.13
More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.14
Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity
Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.2
Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.15
Conclusion
C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
References
1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.
2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.
3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.
4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.
5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.
6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.
7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.
8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.
9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.
10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.
11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.
12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.
13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.
14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.
15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.
The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.4-6
While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
Antioxidant activity
In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).8 Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.9
Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.4
Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.10
Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity
In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.6
Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.11
Cosmeceutical potential
Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.1 The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.12 Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.9
Wrinkle reduction and moisturization
In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.13
More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.14
Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity
Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.2
Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.15
Conclusion
C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
References
1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.
2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.
3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.
4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.
5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.
6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.
7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.
8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.
9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.
10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.
11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.
12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.
13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.
14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.
15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.
The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.4-6
While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
Antioxidant activity
In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).8 Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.9
Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.4
Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.10
Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity
In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.6
Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.11
Cosmeceutical potential
Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.1 The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.12 Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.9
Wrinkle reduction and moisturization
In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.13
More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.14
Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity
Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.2
Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.15
Conclusion
C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
References
1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.
2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.
3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.
4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.
5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.
6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.
7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.
8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.
9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.
10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.
11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.
12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.
13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.
14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.
15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.
Buccal fat pad removal
The buccal fat pads, previously known as Bichat’s fat pads, were first described in 1802. Everyone has them and their size is predominantly related to genetics, but similar to other facial fat pockets, they can shrink or shift over time. Buccal fat pads are often resistant to weight loss and stubbornly persist because of a slower lipolytic rate than subcutaneous fat. Some patients with round facial shapes may seek removal of the midface volume to create a more angular cheek and jawline, which enhances the zygomatic prominence and mandibular angle, creating a more contoured face.
The buccal fat pad is a submuscular fat pad surrounded by a capsule that contains three lobes with four extensions. The anterior lobe rests in front of the anterior border of the masseter muscle. The intermediate lobe extends between the masseter and buccinator muscles. The posterior lobe extends between the temporal masticatory space. These pads range from 7-11 mL in volume and grow from ages 10 to 20 years, declining in size after age 20. Given their location in the central face, they contain a rich vascular supply and are surrounded by the facial nerves, salivary glands, the parotid gland, and muscles of mastication.
The aesthetic contour of the lower face is defined by the mandibular prominence, the masseter muscle, subcutaneous fat, and the buccal fat pad. Surgically, removal is a simple and safe procedure. Complications can include damage to the parotid gland, vessels, salivary duct, or facial nerve. Temporary numbness, swelling, and facial asymmetry are the most common complications.
Increasing popularity, controversy
Removal of the buccal fat pads has become popular because of celebrity media exposure, particularly among young women seeking a slim appearance to their face and jawlines. Although the procedure is relatively simple, there have been no long term studies evaluating the effects of buccal fat pad removal on facial aging.
The shrinking or shifting of fat that occurs with aging makes the removal of these fat pads in young women controversial because when removed, they cannot be effectively replaced. Shrinking of the fat pads with age, loss of midface volume, and solar elastosis can make the cheeks appear gaunt and “sucked in.”
An experienced surgeon will reduce and contour the fat pads – and will not completely remove them – to prevent a complete hollowing of the cheeks over time. Complete removal is not recommended and in men, overzealous removal in men can feminize the face.
In middle-aged men and women, the buccal fat pad can shift to the lower face and often drops below the angle of the mandible giving the appearance of jowls. Complete removal of the shifted buccal fat pad will help align the jawline; however, residual skin laxity is a complication and must be addressed to fully correct the jowls.
In my experience, the best approach to reducing buccal pads as an alternative to surgical removal is “melting” the buccal fat in a systematic, controlled manner over several sessions with either radiofrequency laser or deoxycholic acid injections. This slow, controlled method allows me to contour the cheeks appropriately in concordance with the patient’s anatomy. In younger patients or those with little skin laxity, I choose treatments with deoxycholic acid to remove the pads (which I also use to treat the jowls, as outlined in my 2020 column on treating the jowl overhang with deoxycholic acid).
In patients with more skin laxity, I perform sequential radiofrequency laser treatment over the fat pockets to simultaneously melt the fat pockets and tighten the overlying skin. Both of these methods often require three to six treatments. The controlled, cautious, treatments gradually shrink the fat pockets while preventing the overhollowing of the face.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Naissan O. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
Dubin B et al. Plast Reconstr Surg. 1989 Feb;83(2):257-64
Jackson IT. Plast Reconstr Surg. 1999 Jun;103(7):2059-60.
Matarasso A. Ann Plast Surg. 1991 May;26(5):413-8.
The buccal fat pads, previously known as Bichat’s fat pads, were first described in 1802. Everyone has them and their size is predominantly related to genetics, but similar to other facial fat pockets, they can shrink or shift over time. Buccal fat pads are often resistant to weight loss and stubbornly persist because of a slower lipolytic rate than subcutaneous fat. Some patients with round facial shapes may seek removal of the midface volume to create a more angular cheek and jawline, which enhances the zygomatic prominence and mandibular angle, creating a more contoured face.
The buccal fat pad is a submuscular fat pad surrounded by a capsule that contains three lobes with four extensions. The anterior lobe rests in front of the anterior border of the masseter muscle. The intermediate lobe extends between the masseter and buccinator muscles. The posterior lobe extends between the temporal masticatory space. These pads range from 7-11 mL in volume and grow from ages 10 to 20 years, declining in size after age 20. Given their location in the central face, they contain a rich vascular supply and are surrounded by the facial nerves, salivary glands, the parotid gland, and muscles of mastication.
The aesthetic contour of the lower face is defined by the mandibular prominence, the masseter muscle, subcutaneous fat, and the buccal fat pad. Surgically, removal is a simple and safe procedure. Complications can include damage to the parotid gland, vessels, salivary duct, or facial nerve. Temporary numbness, swelling, and facial asymmetry are the most common complications.
Increasing popularity, controversy
Removal of the buccal fat pads has become popular because of celebrity media exposure, particularly among young women seeking a slim appearance to their face and jawlines. Although the procedure is relatively simple, there have been no long term studies evaluating the effects of buccal fat pad removal on facial aging.
The shrinking or shifting of fat that occurs with aging makes the removal of these fat pads in young women controversial because when removed, they cannot be effectively replaced. Shrinking of the fat pads with age, loss of midface volume, and solar elastosis can make the cheeks appear gaunt and “sucked in.”
An experienced surgeon will reduce and contour the fat pads – and will not completely remove them – to prevent a complete hollowing of the cheeks over time. Complete removal is not recommended and in men, overzealous removal in men can feminize the face.
In middle-aged men and women, the buccal fat pad can shift to the lower face and often drops below the angle of the mandible giving the appearance of jowls. Complete removal of the shifted buccal fat pad will help align the jawline; however, residual skin laxity is a complication and must be addressed to fully correct the jowls.
In my experience, the best approach to reducing buccal pads as an alternative to surgical removal is “melting” the buccal fat in a systematic, controlled manner over several sessions with either radiofrequency laser or deoxycholic acid injections. This slow, controlled method allows me to contour the cheeks appropriately in concordance with the patient’s anatomy. In younger patients or those with little skin laxity, I choose treatments with deoxycholic acid to remove the pads (which I also use to treat the jowls, as outlined in my 2020 column on treating the jowl overhang with deoxycholic acid).
In patients with more skin laxity, I perform sequential radiofrequency laser treatment over the fat pockets to simultaneously melt the fat pockets and tighten the overlying skin. Both of these methods often require three to six treatments. The controlled, cautious, treatments gradually shrink the fat pockets while preventing the overhollowing of the face.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Naissan O. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
Dubin B et al. Plast Reconstr Surg. 1989 Feb;83(2):257-64
Jackson IT. Plast Reconstr Surg. 1999 Jun;103(7):2059-60.
Matarasso A. Ann Plast Surg. 1991 May;26(5):413-8.
The buccal fat pads, previously known as Bichat’s fat pads, were first described in 1802. Everyone has them and their size is predominantly related to genetics, but similar to other facial fat pockets, they can shrink or shift over time. Buccal fat pads are often resistant to weight loss and stubbornly persist because of a slower lipolytic rate than subcutaneous fat. Some patients with round facial shapes may seek removal of the midface volume to create a more angular cheek and jawline, which enhances the zygomatic prominence and mandibular angle, creating a more contoured face.
The buccal fat pad is a submuscular fat pad surrounded by a capsule that contains three lobes with four extensions. The anterior lobe rests in front of the anterior border of the masseter muscle. The intermediate lobe extends between the masseter and buccinator muscles. The posterior lobe extends between the temporal masticatory space. These pads range from 7-11 mL in volume and grow from ages 10 to 20 years, declining in size after age 20. Given their location in the central face, they contain a rich vascular supply and are surrounded by the facial nerves, salivary glands, the parotid gland, and muscles of mastication.
The aesthetic contour of the lower face is defined by the mandibular prominence, the masseter muscle, subcutaneous fat, and the buccal fat pad. Surgically, removal is a simple and safe procedure. Complications can include damage to the parotid gland, vessels, salivary duct, or facial nerve. Temporary numbness, swelling, and facial asymmetry are the most common complications.
Increasing popularity, controversy
Removal of the buccal fat pads has become popular because of celebrity media exposure, particularly among young women seeking a slim appearance to their face and jawlines. Although the procedure is relatively simple, there have been no long term studies evaluating the effects of buccal fat pad removal on facial aging.
The shrinking or shifting of fat that occurs with aging makes the removal of these fat pads in young women controversial because when removed, they cannot be effectively replaced. Shrinking of the fat pads with age, loss of midface volume, and solar elastosis can make the cheeks appear gaunt and “sucked in.”
An experienced surgeon will reduce and contour the fat pads – and will not completely remove them – to prevent a complete hollowing of the cheeks over time. Complete removal is not recommended and in men, overzealous removal in men can feminize the face.
In middle-aged men and women, the buccal fat pad can shift to the lower face and often drops below the angle of the mandible giving the appearance of jowls. Complete removal of the shifted buccal fat pad will help align the jawline; however, residual skin laxity is a complication and must be addressed to fully correct the jowls.
In my experience, the best approach to reducing buccal pads as an alternative to surgical removal is “melting” the buccal fat in a systematic, controlled manner over several sessions with either radiofrequency laser or deoxycholic acid injections. This slow, controlled method allows me to contour the cheeks appropriately in concordance with the patient’s anatomy. In younger patients or those with little skin laxity, I choose treatments with deoxycholic acid to remove the pads (which I also use to treat the jowls, as outlined in my 2020 column on treating the jowl overhang with deoxycholic acid).
In patients with more skin laxity, I perform sequential radiofrequency laser treatment over the fat pockets to simultaneously melt the fat pockets and tighten the overlying skin. Both of these methods often require three to six treatments. The controlled, cautious, treatments gradually shrink the fat pockets while preventing the overhollowing of the face.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Naissan O. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
Dubin B et al. Plast Reconstr Surg. 1989 Feb;83(2):257-64
Jackson IT. Plast Reconstr Surg. 1999 Jun;103(7):2059-60.
Matarasso A. Ann Plast Surg. 1991 May;26(5):413-8.
Picosecond lasers for tattoo removal could benefit from enhancements, expert says
SAN DIEGO – When picosecond lasers hit the market about 10 years ago, they became a game-changer for tattoo removal, boasting the delivery of energy that is about threefold faster than with nanosecond lasers.
However, picosecond lasers are far from perfect even in the hands of the most experienced clinicians, according to Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, Stamford. “They have been very difficult to build from an engineering perspective,” he said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. It took a long time for these lasers to come to the market, and they are still fairly expensive and require a lot of maintenance, he noted. In addition, “they are also not quite as ‘picosecond’ as they need to be. I think there is definitely room to improve, but this is the gold standard.”
Today, . Tattoo ink particles average about 0.1 mcm in size, and the thermal relaxation size works out to be less than 10 nanoseconds, with shorter pulses better at capturing the ink particles that are smaller than average.
Black is the most common tattoo color dermatologists treat. “For that, you can typically use a 1064, which has the highest absorption, but you can also use many of the other wavelengths,” he said. “Other colors are less common, followed by red, for which you would use a 532-nm wavelength.”
Dr. Ibrahimi underscored the importance of setting realistic expectations during consults with patients seeking options for tattoo removal. Even with picosecond laser technology, many treatments are typically required and “a good patient consultation is key to setting proper expectations,” he said. “If you promise someone results in 4 to 5 treatments like many of the device companies will say you can achieve, you’re going to have a large group of patients who are disappointed.”
The clinical endpoint to strive for during tattoo removal is whitening of the ink, which typically fades about 20 minutes after treatment. That whitening corresponds to cavitation, or the production of gas vacuoles in the cells that were holding the ink. This discovery led to a technique intended to enhance tattoo removal. In 2012, R. Rox Anderson, MD, director of the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital, and colleagues published results of a study that compared a single Q-switched laser treatment pass with four treatment passes separated by 20 minutes. After treating 18 tattoos in 12 adults, they found that the technique, known as the “R20” method, was more effective than a single-pass treatment (P < .01).
“Subsequent to this, there has been conflicting data on whether this is truly effective or not,” said Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery. “Most of us agree that one additional pass would be helpful, but when you’re doing this in the private practice setting, it’s often challenging because patients aren’t necessarily willing to pay more for more than just one pass for their tattoo removal.”
Another recent advance is use of a topical square silicone patch infused with perfluorodecalin (PFD) for use during tattoo removal, which has been shown to reduce epidermal whitening. The patch contains a fluorocarbon “that is very good at dissolving gas, and it is already widely used in medicine,” he said. When applied, “it almost instantaneously takes the whitening away; you don’t have to wait the 20 minutes to do your second pass.”
A different technology designed to speed up tattoo removal is the Resonic Rapid Acoustic Pulse device (marketed as Resonic, from Allergan Aesthetics), which is cleared by the FDA for use as an accessory to the 1064 nm Q-switched laser for black tattoo removal in patients with skin types I-III. “This uses acoustic pulses of sound waves; they’re rapid and powerful,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “They can clear those cavitation bubbles much like the PFD patches do. It’s also thought that they further disperse the tattoo ink particles by supplementing the laser energy as well. It is also purported to alter the body’s healing response, or immune response, which is important in tattoo clearing.”
Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie (which owns Allergan), Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.
SAN DIEGO – When picosecond lasers hit the market about 10 years ago, they became a game-changer for tattoo removal, boasting the delivery of energy that is about threefold faster than with nanosecond lasers.
However, picosecond lasers are far from perfect even in the hands of the most experienced clinicians, according to Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, Stamford. “They have been very difficult to build from an engineering perspective,” he said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. It took a long time for these lasers to come to the market, and they are still fairly expensive and require a lot of maintenance, he noted. In addition, “they are also not quite as ‘picosecond’ as they need to be. I think there is definitely room to improve, but this is the gold standard.”
Today, . Tattoo ink particles average about 0.1 mcm in size, and the thermal relaxation size works out to be less than 10 nanoseconds, with shorter pulses better at capturing the ink particles that are smaller than average.
Black is the most common tattoo color dermatologists treat. “For that, you can typically use a 1064, which has the highest absorption, but you can also use many of the other wavelengths,” he said. “Other colors are less common, followed by red, for which you would use a 532-nm wavelength.”
Dr. Ibrahimi underscored the importance of setting realistic expectations during consults with patients seeking options for tattoo removal. Even with picosecond laser technology, many treatments are typically required and “a good patient consultation is key to setting proper expectations,” he said. “If you promise someone results in 4 to 5 treatments like many of the device companies will say you can achieve, you’re going to have a large group of patients who are disappointed.”
The clinical endpoint to strive for during tattoo removal is whitening of the ink, which typically fades about 20 minutes after treatment. That whitening corresponds to cavitation, or the production of gas vacuoles in the cells that were holding the ink. This discovery led to a technique intended to enhance tattoo removal. In 2012, R. Rox Anderson, MD, director of the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital, and colleagues published results of a study that compared a single Q-switched laser treatment pass with four treatment passes separated by 20 minutes. After treating 18 tattoos in 12 adults, they found that the technique, known as the “R20” method, was more effective than a single-pass treatment (P < .01).
“Subsequent to this, there has been conflicting data on whether this is truly effective or not,” said Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery. “Most of us agree that one additional pass would be helpful, but when you’re doing this in the private practice setting, it’s often challenging because patients aren’t necessarily willing to pay more for more than just one pass for their tattoo removal.”
Another recent advance is use of a topical square silicone patch infused with perfluorodecalin (PFD) for use during tattoo removal, which has been shown to reduce epidermal whitening. The patch contains a fluorocarbon “that is very good at dissolving gas, and it is already widely used in medicine,” he said. When applied, “it almost instantaneously takes the whitening away; you don’t have to wait the 20 minutes to do your second pass.”
A different technology designed to speed up tattoo removal is the Resonic Rapid Acoustic Pulse device (marketed as Resonic, from Allergan Aesthetics), which is cleared by the FDA for use as an accessory to the 1064 nm Q-switched laser for black tattoo removal in patients with skin types I-III. “This uses acoustic pulses of sound waves; they’re rapid and powerful,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “They can clear those cavitation bubbles much like the PFD patches do. It’s also thought that they further disperse the tattoo ink particles by supplementing the laser energy as well. It is also purported to alter the body’s healing response, or immune response, which is important in tattoo clearing.”
Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie (which owns Allergan), Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.
SAN DIEGO – When picosecond lasers hit the market about 10 years ago, they became a game-changer for tattoo removal, boasting the delivery of energy that is about threefold faster than with nanosecond lasers.
However, picosecond lasers are far from perfect even in the hands of the most experienced clinicians, according to Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, Stamford. “They have been very difficult to build from an engineering perspective,” he said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. It took a long time for these lasers to come to the market, and they are still fairly expensive and require a lot of maintenance, he noted. In addition, “they are also not quite as ‘picosecond’ as they need to be. I think there is definitely room to improve, but this is the gold standard.”
Today, . Tattoo ink particles average about 0.1 mcm in size, and the thermal relaxation size works out to be less than 10 nanoseconds, with shorter pulses better at capturing the ink particles that are smaller than average.
Black is the most common tattoo color dermatologists treat. “For that, you can typically use a 1064, which has the highest absorption, but you can also use many of the other wavelengths,” he said. “Other colors are less common, followed by red, for which you would use a 532-nm wavelength.”
Dr. Ibrahimi underscored the importance of setting realistic expectations during consults with patients seeking options for tattoo removal. Even with picosecond laser technology, many treatments are typically required and “a good patient consultation is key to setting proper expectations,” he said. “If you promise someone results in 4 to 5 treatments like many of the device companies will say you can achieve, you’re going to have a large group of patients who are disappointed.”
The clinical endpoint to strive for during tattoo removal is whitening of the ink, which typically fades about 20 minutes after treatment. That whitening corresponds to cavitation, or the production of gas vacuoles in the cells that were holding the ink. This discovery led to a technique intended to enhance tattoo removal. In 2012, R. Rox Anderson, MD, director of the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital, and colleagues published results of a study that compared a single Q-switched laser treatment pass with four treatment passes separated by 20 minutes. After treating 18 tattoos in 12 adults, they found that the technique, known as the “R20” method, was more effective than a single-pass treatment (P < .01).
“Subsequent to this, there has been conflicting data on whether this is truly effective or not,” said Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery. “Most of us agree that one additional pass would be helpful, but when you’re doing this in the private practice setting, it’s often challenging because patients aren’t necessarily willing to pay more for more than just one pass for their tattoo removal.”
Another recent advance is use of a topical square silicone patch infused with perfluorodecalin (PFD) for use during tattoo removal, which has been shown to reduce epidermal whitening. The patch contains a fluorocarbon “that is very good at dissolving gas, and it is already widely used in medicine,” he said. When applied, “it almost instantaneously takes the whitening away; you don’t have to wait the 20 minutes to do your second pass.”
A different technology designed to speed up tattoo removal is the Resonic Rapid Acoustic Pulse device (marketed as Resonic, from Allergan Aesthetics), which is cleared by the FDA for use as an accessory to the 1064 nm Q-switched laser for black tattoo removal in patients with skin types I-III. “This uses acoustic pulses of sound waves; they’re rapid and powerful,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “They can clear those cavitation bubbles much like the PFD patches do. It’s also thought that they further disperse the tattoo ink particles by supplementing the laser energy as well. It is also purported to alter the body’s healing response, or immune response, which is important in tattoo clearing.”
Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie (which owns Allergan), Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.
AT MOAS 2022
Do collagen supplements benefit the skin?
SAN DIEGO – When patients ask if collagen supplements can benefit their skin, what should you tell them?
According to Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., And in her opinion, more research is needed to establish knowledge of the effects and physiologic mechanism of collagen supplementation.
“Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin; it is found only in animal flesh like meat and fish that contain connective tissue,” she said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We produce less collagen as we age. External factors can slow down our collagen production, including smoking, sun exposure, lack of sleep/exercise, and alcohol consumption.”
Though human studies are lacking, some trials have found that collagen supplements may improve skin hydration and elasticity. “Maybe there’s some benefit, but the digestive process breaks collagen down into amino acids, so I don’t buy it,” she said.
At the meeting, Dr. Shamban discussed other topics related to the effect of supplements and nutrition on the skin:
Can Nutrafol reverse permanent hair loss? “It definitely doesn’t do that,” she said. “Can it help regrow hair? Perhaps.” Nutrafol is an over-the-counter supplement that aims to relieve moderate hair thinning or strengthen hair to prevent breakage, and is physician-formulated with medical-grade ingredients that target root causes of thinning such as stress, lifestyle, hormones, and nutrition.
As for biotin, “we now know that high levels of biotin can actually cause hair loss,” she said. “If you have advanced hair loss, supplements may not work for you. There is no hair regrowth supplement that can bring back a dead hair follicle. Can it help a miniaturized hair follicle? Maybe. Platelet-rich plasma injections have been shown to stimulate hair growth, but only if the follicle is miniaturized, not if it’s totally gone.”
How does the human microbiome affect skin? In a review of sequencing surveys of healthy adults, “the composition of microbial communities was found to be primarily dependent on the physiology of the skin site, with changes in the relative abundance of bacterial taxa associated with moist, dry, and sebaceous environments,” the authors reported . “The microbiome is the genetic material of all the microbes that live inside the body, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses,” Dr. Shamban said. “The more diverse the microbiota is, the healthier it’s considered. That diversity is enriched through a diet full of various vegetables and fruits.”
Nearly all adults are colonized with Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), but only a minority have acne, which highlights the importance of studying diseases in the broader context of host genetics, immune or barrier defects, the microbiome, and the environment, she added. For example, the decreased diversity of the skin microbiome in people with atopic dermatitis has been linked to a reduction in environmental biodiversity in the areas surrounding their homes.
Do adaptogens have a role in skin care? Adaptogens such as ashwagandha, elderberry, ginseng, licorice root, neem, moringa, and reishi mushrooms have been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for centuries and are purported to promote adaptability, resilience, and survival of living organisms in stress. They appear to affect the neuroendocrine immune system and at low doses may function as mild stress mimetics.
“The idea is that combining adaptogens into skin care can reinforce and support the skin’s resistance against stressors that can accelerate visible signs of aging,” said Dr. Shamban. “They share some similarities with antioxidants in that their main purpose is to protect the body from external stressors such as UV rays, oxidation, and pollution.” More studies should be conducted to verify effectiveness, she said, “but Eastern practices that have incorporated it for centuries shouldn’t be fully dismissed. Most doctors believe adaptogens are safe, but how they interact with the mechanics of the body’s stress response system remains a mystery.”
Embrace the consumption of micronutrients. Inspired by work from dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Dr. Shamban advises patients to eat a “rainbow of different colored foods” every day, especially those rich in vitamins A, C, and E. Green foods are generally rich in vitamin E, brown foods are rich in trace minerals, and blue/purple foods are rich in antioxidants. “It’s always best to get nutrients from a rich, healthy diet, but sometimes our skin requires extra help,” she said.
A randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study by French researchers, which showed that skin is prone to seasonal changes during the winter, particularly in exposed areas, also looked at whether a daily micronutrient supplement with ingredients that included green tea extract, blackcurrant seed oil, and magnesium, had an impact on the negative effects of winter weather on the skin. “The data indicate that oral micronutrient supplementation can be a safe treatment, with no serious side effects, and may prevent or even eliminate the negative effects of winter on the skin,” she said.
Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.
SAN DIEGO – When patients ask if collagen supplements can benefit their skin, what should you tell them?
According to Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., And in her opinion, more research is needed to establish knowledge of the effects and physiologic mechanism of collagen supplementation.
“Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin; it is found only in animal flesh like meat and fish that contain connective tissue,” she said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We produce less collagen as we age. External factors can slow down our collagen production, including smoking, sun exposure, lack of sleep/exercise, and alcohol consumption.”
Though human studies are lacking, some trials have found that collagen supplements may improve skin hydration and elasticity. “Maybe there’s some benefit, but the digestive process breaks collagen down into amino acids, so I don’t buy it,” she said.
At the meeting, Dr. Shamban discussed other topics related to the effect of supplements and nutrition on the skin:
Can Nutrafol reverse permanent hair loss? “It definitely doesn’t do that,” she said. “Can it help regrow hair? Perhaps.” Nutrafol is an over-the-counter supplement that aims to relieve moderate hair thinning or strengthen hair to prevent breakage, and is physician-formulated with medical-grade ingredients that target root causes of thinning such as stress, lifestyle, hormones, and nutrition.
As for biotin, “we now know that high levels of biotin can actually cause hair loss,” she said. “If you have advanced hair loss, supplements may not work for you. There is no hair regrowth supplement that can bring back a dead hair follicle. Can it help a miniaturized hair follicle? Maybe. Platelet-rich plasma injections have been shown to stimulate hair growth, but only if the follicle is miniaturized, not if it’s totally gone.”
How does the human microbiome affect skin? In a review of sequencing surveys of healthy adults, “the composition of microbial communities was found to be primarily dependent on the physiology of the skin site, with changes in the relative abundance of bacterial taxa associated with moist, dry, and sebaceous environments,” the authors reported . “The microbiome is the genetic material of all the microbes that live inside the body, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses,” Dr. Shamban said. “The more diverse the microbiota is, the healthier it’s considered. That diversity is enriched through a diet full of various vegetables and fruits.”
Nearly all adults are colonized with Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), but only a minority have acne, which highlights the importance of studying diseases in the broader context of host genetics, immune or barrier defects, the microbiome, and the environment, she added. For example, the decreased diversity of the skin microbiome in people with atopic dermatitis has been linked to a reduction in environmental biodiversity in the areas surrounding their homes.
Do adaptogens have a role in skin care? Adaptogens such as ashwagandha, elderberry, ginseng, licorice root, neem, moringa, and reishi mushrooms have been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for centuries and are purported to promote adaptability, resilience, and survival of living organisms in stress. They appear to affect the neuroendocrine immune system and at low doses may function as mild stress mimetics.
“The idea is that combining adaptogens into skin care can reinforce and support the skin’s resistance against stressors that can accelerate visible signs of aging,” said Dr. Shamban. “They share some similarities with antioxidants in that their main purpose is to protect the body from external stressors such as UV rays, oxidation, and pollution.” More studies should be conducted to verify effectiveness, she said, “but Eastern practices that have incorporated it for centuries shouldn’t be fully dismissed. Most doctors believe adaptogens are safe, but how they interact with the mechanics of the body’s stress response system remains a mystery.”
Embrace the consumption of micronutrients. Inspired by work from dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Dr. Shamban advises patients to eat a “rainbow of different colored foods” every day, especially those rich in vitamins A, C, and E. Green foods are generally rich in vitamin E, brown foods are rich in trace minerals, and blue/purple foods are rich in antioxidants. “It’s always best to get nutrients from a rich, healthy diet, but sometimes our skin requires extra help,” she said.
A randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study by French researchers, which showed that skin is prone to seasonal changes during the winter, particularly in exposed areas, also looked at whether a daily micronutrient supplement with ingredients that included green tea extract, blackcurrant seed oil, and magnesium, had an impact on the negative effects of winter weather on the skin. “The data indicate that oral micronutrient supplementation can be a safe treatment, with no serious side effects, and may prevent or even eliminate the negative effects of winter on the skin,” she said.
Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.
SAN DIEGO – When patients ask if collagen supplements can benefit their skin, what should you tell them?
According to Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., And in her opinion, more research is needed to establish knowledge of the effects and physiologic mechanism of collagen supplementation.
“Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin; it is found only in animal flesh like meat and fish that contain connective tissue,” she said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We produce less collagen as we age. External factors can slow down our collagen production, including smoking, sun exposure, lack of sleep/exercise, and alcohol consumption.”
Though human studies are lacking, some trials have found that collagen supplements may improve skin hydration and elasticity. “Maybe there’s some benefit, but the digestive process breaks collagen down into amino acids, so I don’t buy it,” she said.
At the meeting, Dr. Shamban discussed other topics related to the effect of supplements and nutrition on the skin:
Can Nutrafol reverse permanent hair loss? “It definitely doesn’t do that,” she said. “Can it help regrow hair? Perhaps.” Nutrafol is an over-the-counter supplement that aims to relieve moderate hair thinning or strengthen hair to prevent breakage, and is physician-formulated with medical-grade ingredients that target root causes of thinning such as stress, lifestyle, hormones, and nutrition.
As for biotin, “we now know that high levels of biotin can actually cause hair loss,” she said. “If you have advanced hair loss, supplements may not work for you. There is no hair regrowth supplement that can bring back a dead hair follicle. Can it help a miniaturized hair follicle? Maybe. Platelet-rich plasma injections have been shown to stimulate hair growth, but only if the follicle is miniaturized, not if it’s totally gone.”
How does the human microbiome affect skin? In a review of sequencing surveys of healthy adults, “the composition of microbial communities was found to be primarily dependent on the physiology of the skin site, with changes in the relative abundance of bacterial taxa associated with moist, dry, and sebaceous environments,” the authors reported . “The microbiome is the genetic material of all the microbes that live inside the body, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses,” Dr. Shamban said. “The more diverse the microbiota is, the healthier it’s considered. That diversity is enriched through a diet full of various vegetables and fruits.”
Nearly all adults are colonized with Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), but only a minority have acne, which highlights the importance of studying diseases in the broader context of host genetics, immune or barrier defects, the microbiome, and the environment, she added. For example, the decreased diversity of the skin microbiome in people with atopic dermatitis has been linked to a reduction in environmental biodiversity in the areas surrounding their homes.
Do adaptogens have a role in skin care? Adaptogens such as ashwagandha, elderberry, ginseng, licorice root, neem, moringa, and reishi mushrooms have been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for centuries and are purported to promote adaptability, resilience, and survival of living organisms in stress. They appear to affect the neuroendocrine immune system and at low doses may function as mild stress mimetics.
“The idea is that combining adaptogens into skin care can reinforce and support the skin’s resistance against stressors that can accelerate visible signs of aging,” said Dr. Shamban. “They share some similarities with antioxidants in that their main purpose is to protect the body from external stressors such as UV rays, oxidation, and pollution.” More studies should be conducted to verify effectiveness, she said, “but Eastern practices that have incorporated it for centuries shouldn’t be fully dismissed. Most doctors believe adaptogens are safe, but how they interact with the mechanics of the body’s stress response system remains a mystery.”
Embrace the consumption of micronutrients. Inspired by work from dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Dr. Shamban advises patients to eat a “rainbow of different colored foods” every day, especially those rich in vitamins A, C, and E. Green foods are generally rich in vitamin E, brown foods are rich in trace minerals, and blue/purple foods are rich in antioxidants. “It’s always best to get nutrients from a rich, healthy diet, but sometimes our skin requires extra help,” she said.
A randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study by French researchers, which showed that skin is prone to seasonal changes during the winter, particularly in exposed areas, also looked at whether a daily micronutrient supplement with ingredients that included green tea extract, blackcurrant seed oil, and magnesium, had an impact on the negative effects of winter weather on the skin. “The data indicate that oral micronutrient supplementation can be a safe treatment, with no serious side effects, and may prevent or even eliminate the negative effects of winter on the skin,” she said.
Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.
AT MOAS 2022
Surgeon’s license suspension spotlights hazards, ethics of live-streaming surgeries
potentially endangering patients. The surgeon has a large social media following.
In November, the State Medical Board of Ohio temporarily suspended the license of Katherine Roxanne Grawe, MD, who practices in the wealthy Columbus suburb of Powell.
Among other accusations of misconduct, the board stated that “during some videos/live-streams you engage in dialogue to respond to viewers’ online questions while the surgical procedure remains actively ongoing.”
One patient needed emergency treatment following liposuction and was diagnosed with a perforated bowel and serious bacterial infection.
“Despite liposuction being a blind surgery that requires awareness of the tip of the cannula to avoid injury, your attention to the camera meant at those moments you were not looking at the patient or palpating the location of the tip of the cannula,” the medical board said.
Neither Dr. Grawe nor her attorney responded to requests for comment.
Dr. Grawe, known as “Dr. Roxy,” has a popular TikTok account – now set to private – with 841,600 followers and 14.6 million likes. She has another 123,000 followers on her Instagram account, also now private.
The Columbus Dispatch reported that Dr. Grawe had previously been warned to protect patient privacy on social media. The board has yet to make a final decision regarding her license.
According to Columbus TV station WSYX, she said in a TikTok video, “We show our surgeries every single day on Snapchat. Patients get to decide if they want to be part of it. And if you do, you can watch your own surgery.”
The TV station quoted former patients who described surgical complications. One said: “I went to her because, I thought, from all of her social media that she uplifted women. That she helped women empower themselves. But she didn’t.”
Dallas plastic surgeon Rod J. Rohrich, MD, who has written about social-media best practices and has 430,000 followers on Instagram, said in an interview that many surgeons have been reprimanded by state medical boards for being distracted by social media during procedures.
“It is best not to do live-streaming unless it is an educational event to demonstrate techniques and technology with full informed consent of the patient. It should be a very well-rehearsed event for education,” he said.
Nurses also have been disciplined for inappropriate posts on social media. In December 2022, an Atlanta hospital announced that four nurses were no longer on the job after they appeared in a TikTok video in scrubs and revealed their “icks” regarding obstetric care.
“My ick is when you ask me how much the baby weighs,” one worker said in the video, “and it’s still ... in your hands.”
Plastic surgeon Christian J. Vercler, MD, of the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, who’s studied social-media guidelines for surgeons, said in an interview that plastic surgery content on TikTok has “blown up” in recent years.
“Five years or so ago, it was Snapchat where I saw a lot of inappropriate things posted by surgeons,” Dr. Vercler said in an interview. “That may still be happening on Snapchat, but I actually don’t ever use that platform anymore, and neither do my trainees.”
Dr. Vercler cautioned colleagues to consider their motivations for live-streaming surgery and to think about whether they can fully focus on the patient.
“There are many potential distractions in the OR. We get pages, phone calls, nurses asking us questions, anesthesiologists trying to talk to us. Social media is just one more thing competing for the surgeon’s attention,” he said. “Every surgeon should strive to eliminate unnecessary or unavoidable distractions, so the question becomes, ‘who is best being served by me focusing my attention on recording this operation on someone’s phone so we can post it on social media? Is it the patient?’ ”
Dr. Vercler added, “There are many, many plastic surgeons using social media as the powerful platform that it is to build their brands, to connect with potential patients, and to educate the public about what they do. I believe that most are doing this in a way that is respectful to patients and doesn’t exploit patients for the surgeon’s benefit.
“Unfortunately,” he concluded, “there are some who do see patients as merely instruments by which they can achieve fame, notoriety, and wealth.”
Dr. Rohrich and Dr. Vercler disclosed no relevant financial relationships.
A version of this article first appeared on Medscape.com.
potentially endangering patients. The surgeon has a large social media following.
In November, the State Medical Board of Ohio temporarily suspended the license of Katherine Roxanne Grawe, MD, who practices in the wealthy Columbus suburb of Powell.
Among other accusations of misconduct, the board stated that “during some videos/live-streams you engage in dialogue to respond to viewers’ online questions while the surgical procedure remains actively ongoing.”
One patient needed emergency treatment following liposuction and was diagnosed with a perforated bowel and serious bacterial infection.
“Despite liposuction being a blind surgery that requires awareness of the tip of the cannula to avoid injury, your attention to the camera meant at those moments you were not looking at the patient or palpating the location of the tip of the cannula,” the medical board said.
Neither Dr. Grawe nor her attorney responded to requests for comment.
Dr. Grawe, known as “Dr. Roxy,” has a popular TikTok account – now set to private – with 841,600 followers and 14.6 million likes. She has another 123,000 followers on her Instagram account, also now private.
The Columbus Dispatch reported that Dr. Grawe had previously been warned to protect patient privacy on social media. The board has yet to make a final decision regarding her license.
According to Columbus TV station WSYX, she said in a TikTok video, “We show our surgeries every single day on Snapchat. Patients get to decide if they want to be part of it. And if you do, you can watch your own surgery.”
The TV station quoted former patients who described surgical complications. One said: “I went to her because, I thought, from all of her social media that she uplifted women. That she helped women empower themselves. But she didn’t.”
Dallas plastic surgeon Rod J. Rohrich, MD, who has written about social-media best practices and has 430,000 followers on Instagram, said in an interview that many surgeons have been reprimanded by state medical boards for being distracted by social media during procedures.
“It is best not to do live-streaming unless it is an educational event to demonstrate techniques and technology with full informed consent of the patient. It should be a very well-rehearsed event for education,” he said.
Nurses also have been disciplined for inappropriate posts on social media. In December 2022, an Atlanta hospital announced that four nurses were no longer on the job after they appeared in a TikTok video in scrubs and revealed their “icks” regarding obstetric care.
“My ick is when you ask me how much the baby weighs,” one worker said in the video, “and it’s still ... in your hands.”
Plastic surgeon Christian J. Vercler, MD, of the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, who’s studied social-media guidelines for surgeons, said in an interview that plastic surgery content on TikTok has “blown up” in recent years.
“Five years or so ago, it was Snapchat where I saw a lot of inappropriate things posted by surgeons,” Dr. Vercler said in an interview. “That may still be happening on Snapchat, but I actually don’t ever use that platform anymore, and neither do my trainees.”
Dr. Vercler cautioned colleagues to consider their motivations for live-streaming surgery and to think about whether they can fully focus on the patient.
“There are many potential distractions in the OR. We get pages, phone calls, nurses asking us questions, anesthesiologists trying to talk to us. Social media is just one more thing competing for the surgeon’s attention,” he said. “Every surgeon should strive to eliminate unnecessary or unavoidable distractions, so the question becomes, ‘who is best being served by me focusing my attention on recording this operation on someone’s phone so we can post it on social media? Is it the patient?’ ”
Dr. Vercler added, “There are many, many plastic surgeons using social media as the powerful platform that it is to build their brands, to connect with potential patients, and to educate the public about what they do. I believe that most are doing this in a way that is respectful to patients and doesn’t exploit patients for the surgeon’s benefit.
“Unfortunately,” he concluded, “there are some who do see patients as merely instruments by which they can achieve fame, notoriety, and wealth.”
Dr. Rohrich and Dr. Vercler disclosed no relevant financial relationships.
A version of this article first appeared on Medscape.com.
potentially endangering patients. The surgeon has a large social media following.
In November, the State Medical Board of Ohio temporarily suspended the license of Katherine Roxanne Grawe, MD, who practices in the wealthy Columbus suburb of Powell.
Among other accusations of misconduct, the board stated that “during some videos/live-streams you engage in dialogue to respond to viewers’ online questions while the surgical procedure remains actively ongoing.”
One patient needed emergency treatment following liposuction and was diagnosed with a perforated bowel and serious bacterial infection.
“Despite liposuction being a blind surgery that requires awareness of the tip of the cannula to avoid injury, your attention to the camera meant at those moments you were not looking at the patient or palpating the location of the tip of the cannula,” the medical board said.
Neither Dr. Grawe nor her attorney responded to requests for comment.
Dr. Grawe, known as “Dr. Roxy,” has a popular TikTok account – now set to private – with 841,600 followers and 14.6 million likes. She has another 123,000 followers on her Instagram account, also now private.
The Columbus Dispatch reported that Dr. Grawe had previously been warned to protect patient privacy on social media. The board has yet to make a final decision regarding her license.
According to Columbus TV station WSYX, she said in a TikTok video, “We show our surgeries every single day on Snapchat. Patients get to decide if they want to be part of it. And if you do, you can watch your own surgery.”
The TV station quoted former patients who described surgical complications. One said: “I went to her because, I thought, from all of her social media that she uplifted women. That she helped women empower themselves. But she didn’t.”
Dallas plastic surgeon Rod J. Rohrich, MD, who has written about social-media best practices and has 430,000 followers on Instagram, said in an interview that many surgeons have been reprimanded by state medical boards for being distracted by social media during procedures.
“It is best not to do live-streaming unless it is an educational event to demonstrate techniques and technology with full informed consent of the patient. It should be a very well-rehearsed event for education,” he said.
Nurses also have been disciplined for inappropriate posts on social media. In December 2022, an Atlanta hospital announced that four nurses were no longer on the job after they appeared in a TikTok video in scrubs and revealed their “icks” regarding obstetric care.
“My ick is when you ask me how much the baby weighs,” one worker said in the video, “and it’s still ... in your hands.”
Plastic surgeon Christian J. Vercler, MD, of the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, who’s studied social-media guidelines for surgeons, said in an interview that plastic surgery content on TikTok has “blown up” in recent years.
“Five years or so ago, it was Snapchat where I saw a lot of inappropriate things posted by surgeons,” Dr. Vercler said in an interview. “That may still be happening on Snapchat, but I actually don’t ever use that platform anymore, and neither do my trainees.”
Dr. Vercler cautioned colleagues to consider their motivations for live-streaming surgery and to think about whether they can fully focus on the patient.
“There are many potential distractions in the OR. We get pages, phone calls, nurses asking us questions, anesthesiologists trying to talk to us. Social media is just one more thing competing for the surgeon’s attention,” he said. “Every surgeon should strive to eliminate unnecessary or unavoidable distractions, so the question becomes, ‘who is best being served by me focusing my attention on recording this operation on someone’s phone so we can post it on social media? Is it the patient?’ ”
Dr. Vercler added, “There are many, many plastic surgeons using social media as the powerful platform that it is to build their brands, to connect with potential patients, and to educate the public about what they do. I believe that most are doing this in a way that is respectful to patients and doesn’t exploit patients for the surgeon’s benefit.
“Unfortunately,” he concluded, “there are some who do see patients as merely instruments by which they can achieve fame, notoriety, and wealth.”
Dr. Rohrich and Dr. Vercler disclosed no relevant financial relationships.
A version of this article first appeared on Medscape.com.
Why it’s important to offer cosmeceuticals in a cosmetic practice
SAN DIEGO – , advised Ava Shamban, MD.
It’s important to provide patients with high-quality products to take home with them and cosmeceuticals contain biologically active ingredients that enhance skin care efficacy, Dr. Shamban, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You can do all the lasers, injectables, and peels that you want, but if you’re not giving your patients high-quality products to take home with them, you’re not doing your job,” she commented.
“Look for brands that are formulated and tested for effectiveness,” she added. “In my office, we like to have products that are designed for specific issues to accompany prescription products, everything from rosacea, acne, melasma, and eczema to psoriasis.”
Dr. Shamban, author of the 2011 book, “Heal Your Skin: The Breakthrough Plan for Renewal,” recommends that dermatologists devise a questionnaire for patients asking them to list their skin-related concerns and use the responses to create a list of products for them to use at home. Provide clear instructions on use, including proper layering of products, how often to use them, and the correct amount to apply. “If you’re not going to do this, someone else will,” she said. Next, instruct them that cosmeceuticals must be used routinely to achieve optimal benefit. “Nothing happens overnight, and be wary of anyone that promises you otherwise,” Dr. Shamban said. “Offering cosmeceuticals helps bridge the gap between at-home routines and in-office treatments. If in-office procedures are a marathon, view the consistent use of the right products at home as your training.”
During her presentation, she showed a photo of the “beauty bar,” the dedicated space with a counter and shelves for displaying skin care products in her Santa Monica office. “It’s good to set something up like this in your office, even if it’s just a little corner, because it gives it authority,” Dr. Shamban said. “Encourage clients to explore the beauty bar after their appointment with you.” She emphasized the importance of offering a wide range of products to accommodate different lifestyles, budgets, skin types, ages, and specific skin concerns, and training staff about the products. “There is never a one-size-fits-all approach to skincare; it’s all about the individual,” she said. “It’s never about pushing product; it’s always about educating patients.”
Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.
SAN DIEGO – , advised Ava Shamban, MD.
It’s important to provide patients with high-quality products to take home with them and cosmeceuticals contain biologically active ingredients that enhance skin care efficacy, Dr. Shamban, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You can do all the lasers, injectables, and peels that you want, but if you’re not giving your patients high-quality products to take home with them, you’re not doing your job,” she commented.
“Look for brands that are formulated and tested for effectiveness,” she added. “In my office, we like to have products that are designed for specific issues to accompany prescription products, everything from rosacea, acne, melasma, and eczema to psoriasis.”
Dr. Shamban, author of the 2011 book, “Heal Your Skin: The Breakthrough Plan for Renewal,” recommends that dermatologists devise a questionnaire for patients asking them to list their skin-related concerns and use the responses to create a list of products for them to use at home. Provide clear instructions on use, including proper layering of products, how often to use them, and the correct amount to apply. “If you’re not going to do this, someone else will,” she said. Next, instruct them that cosmeceuticals must be used routinely to achieve optimal benefit. “Nothing happens overnight, and be wary of anyone that promises you otherwise,” Dr. Shamban said. “Offering cosmeceuticals helps bridge the gap between at-home routines and in-office treatments. If in-office procedures are a marathon, view the consistent use of the right products at home as your training.”
During her presentation, she showed a photo of the “beauty bar,” the dedicated space with a counter and shelves for displaying skin care products in her Santa Monica office. “It’s good to set something up like this in your office, even if it’s just a little corner, because it gives it authority,” Dr. Shamban said. “Encourage clients to explore the beauty bar after their appointment with you.” She emphasized the importance of offering a wide range of products to accommodate different lifestyles, budgets, skin types, ages, and specific skin concerns, and training staff about the products. “There is never a one-size-fits-all approach to skincare; it’s all about the individual,” she said. “It’s never about pushing product; it’s always about educating patients.”
Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.
SAN DIEGO – , advised Ava Shamban, MD.
It’s important to provide patients with high-quality products to take home with them and cosmeceuticals contain biologically active ingredients that enhance skin care efficacy, Dr. Shamban, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You can do all the lasers, injectables, and peels that you want, but if you’re not giving your patients high-quality products to take home with them, you’re not doing your job,” she commented.
“Look for brands that are formulated and tested for effectiveness,” she added. “In my office, we like to have products that are designed for specific issues to accompany prescription products, everything from rosacea, acne, melasma, and eczema to psoriasis.”
Dr. Shamban, author of the 2011 book, “Heal Your Skin: The Breakthrough Plan for Renewal,” recommends that dermatologists devise a questionnaire for patients asking them to list their skin-related concerns and use the responses to create a list of products for them to use at home. Provide clear instructions on use, including proper layering of products, how often to use them, and the correct amount to apply. “If you’re not going to do this, someone else will,” she said. Next, instruct them that cosmeceuticals must be used routinely to achieve optimal benefit. “Nothing happens overnight, and be wary of anyone that promises you otherwise,” Dr. Shamban said. “Offering cosmeceuticals helps bridge the gap between at-home routines and in-office treatments. If in-office procedures are a marathon, view the consistent use of the right products at home as your training.”
During her presentation, she showed a photo of the “beauty bar,” the dedicated space with a counter and shelves for displaying skin care products in her Santa Monica office. “It’s good to set something up like this in your office, even if it’s just a little corner, because it gives it authority,” Dr. Shamban said. “Encourage clients to explore the beauty bar after their appointment with you.” She emphasized the importance of offering a wide range of products to accommodate different lifestyles, budgets, skin types, ages, and specific skin concerns, and training staff about the products. “There is never a one-size-fits-all approach to skincare; it’s all about the individual,” she said. “It’s never about pushing product; it’s always about educating patients.”
Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.
AT MOAS 2022
Cosmetic medicine expert shares male facial aesthetics pearls
SAN DIEGO – .
“Men generally have larger facial muscle mass,” Dr. Green, a dermatologist in Coral Gables, Fla., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We need a higher dose to treat them, or they will not be happy. In general, I try to increase the dose by about 50% for my male patients.”
Two early trials of dose adjustments support this practice, he said. In one, 80 men were randomized to receive a total dose of either 20, 40, 60, or 80 U of botulinum toxin type A (Botox) in the glabellar area. The researchers found that the 40, 60, and 80 U doses of botulinum toxin type A were consistently more effective in reducing glabellar lines than the 20 U dose.
In a subsequent study, researchers administered botulinum toxin type A (Dysport) 0.5 to 0.7 mL for men (60, 70, or 80 units), based on procerus/corrugator muscle mass. Efficacy was assessed by a blinded evaluator and patient self-evaluation at several time points up to 150 days post treatment. The median duration of effect was 109 days vs. 0 days for placebo in the blinded evaluator evaluation and 107 days vs. 0 for placebo in the patient self-evaluation.
Most injection algorithms for treating the glabella rely on a 5- or 7-point injection technique, but in 2021, researchers led by Sebastian Cotofana, MD, PhD, of the department of clinical anatomy at Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minn., reported results from a study of the efficacy and safety of a refined 3-point injection technique targeting horizontal and vertical lines to prevent brow ptosis.
“Prior to this study Sebastian asked me, ‘Why do you guys always inject the body of the muscle?’ ” Dr. Green said. “‘If you inject the origin of the muscle on bone, you could more effectively wipe out the entire muscle’s movement. You’re going to get a better result at a lower dose, so let’s study this.’”
The injection technique involves targeting the midline level of the connecting line between left and right medial canthal ligaments with a 90-degree injection angle with bone contact, as well as the medial and inferior margin of eyebrows with a 45-degree injection angle in relation to midline with frontal bone contact. These three points are located inferior to the traditional (on-label) glabellar frown line injections used to treat the frontalis and the brow depressors.
The researchers used the 5-point glabellar line severity scale to evaluate the time of effect onset and the injection-related outcome 120 days after the treatment in 27 men and 78 women. They found that the onset of the neuromodulator effect occurred in an average of 3.5 days, and no adverse events such as eyebrow ptosis, upper eyelid ptosis, medial eyebrow ptosis, and lateral frontalis hyperactivity occurred during the study period.
“If you inject the origin of these muscles, you can get a brow lift with this technique by avoiding frontalis altogether,” Dr. Green said. “The caveat is, it’s so great at lifting the brows that if you treat the forehead, you may create a midline horizontal ‘shelf’ like I’ve never seen before, where the eyebrows elevate into an immobile superior frontalis.”
To avoid this when treating the forehead as well, he’s learned to split the dose of neuromodulator. “If I was injecting 5 units in the procerus before, I’ll do 2.5 units on nasal bone at the insertion of the muscle and then 2.5 units higher up in the traditional midline procerus injection site,” Dr. Green said.
“Same with the corrugators,” he continued. “Then, remember to inject more superficially in the lateral part, the tail of the corrugators, because the tail of the corrugators is inserting into the undersurface of the dermis. That’s why you see that skin puckering in the lateral brows when people frown. You’re pretty safe to chase that laterally if the brow’s already flat as in men, but I caution you [not] to do that in women, because you may flatten the brow.”
Dr. Green said that he is aware of two cases of lid ptosis from the 3-point technique, one of which happened to him.
“When you’re on the bone with your thumb you can feel that liquid traveling along the bone,” he said. “It can travel all the way to the midline pupil where the levator palpebrae superioris muscle is. I now don’t come in contact with bone with my corrugator origin injections, but rather float the needle a couple of millimeters off bone (in muscle) to hopefully prevent that from happening. Alternatively, some people will compress the brow along frontal bone lateral to that corrugator injection site while they’re injecting to prevent backflow of the neuromodulator.”
Dr. Green reported having received research funding and/or consulting fees from many device and pharmaceutical companies.
SAN DIEGO – .
“Men generally have larger facial muscle mass,” Dr. Green, a dermatologist in Coral Gables, Fla., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We need a higher dose to treat them, or they will not be happy. In general, I try to increase the dose by about 50% for my male patients.”
Two early trials of dose adjustments support this practice, he said. In one, 80 men were randomized to receive a total dose of either 20, 40, 60, or 80 U of botulinum toxin type A (Botox) in the glabellar area. The researchers found that the 40, 60, and 80 U doses of botulinum toxin type A were consistently more effective in reducing glabellar lines than the 20 U dose.
In a subsequent study, researchers administered botulinum toxin type A (Dysport) 0.5 to 0.7 mL for men (60, 70, or 80 units), based on procerus/corrugator muscle mass. Efficacy was assessed by a blinded evaluator and patient self-evaluation at several time points up to 150 days post treatment. The median duration of effect was 109 days vs. 0 days for placebo in the blinded evaluator evaluation and 107 days vs. 0 for placebo in the patient self-evaluation.
Most injection algorithms for treating the glabella rely on a 5- or 7-point injection technique, but in 2021, researchers led by Sebastian Cotofana, MD, PhD, of the department of clinical anatomy at Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minn., reported results from a study of the efficacy and safety of a refined 3-point injection technique targeting horizontal and vertical lines to prevent brow ptosis.
“Prior to this study Sebastian asked me, ‘Why do you guys always inject the body of the muscle?’ ” Dr. Green said. “‘If you inject the origin of the muscle on bone, you could more effectively wipe out the entire muscle’s movement. You’re going to get a better result at a lower dose, so let’s study this.’”
The injection technique involves targeting the midline level of the connecting line between left and right medial canthal ligaments with a 90-degree injection angle with bone contact, as well as the medial and inferior margin of eyebrows with a 45-degree injection angle in relation to midline with frontal bone contact. These three points are located inferior to the traditional (on-label) glabellar frown line injections used to treat the frontalis and the brow depressors.
The researchers used the 5-point glabellar line severity scale to evaluate the time of effect onset and the injection-related outcome 120 days after the treatment in 27 men and 78 women. They found that the onset of the neuromodulator effect occurred in an average of 3.5 days, and no adverse events such as eyebrow ptosis, upper eyelid ptosis, medial eyebrow ptosis, and lateral frontalis hyperactivity occurred during the study period.
“If you inject the origin of these muscles, you can get a brow lift with this technique by avoiding frontalis altogether,” Dr. Green said. “The caveat is, it’s so great at lifting the brows that if you treat the forehead, you may create a midline horizontal ‘shelf’ like I’ve never seen before, where the eyebrows elevate into an immobile superior frontalis.”
To avoid this when treating the forehead as well, he’s learned to split the dose of neuromodulator. “If I was injecting 5 units in the procerus before, I’ll do 2.5 units on nasal bone at the insertion of the muscle and then 2.5 units higher up in the traditional midline procerus injection site,” Dr. Green said.
“Same with the corrugators,” he continued. “Then, remember to inject more superficially in the lateral part, the tail of the corrugators, because the tail of the corrugators is inserting into the undersurface of the dermis. That’s why you see that skin puckering in the lateral brows when people frown. You’re pretty safe to chase that laterally if the brow’s already flat as in men, but I caution you [not] to do that in women, because you may flatten the brow.”
Dr. Green said that he is aware of two cases of lid ptosis from the 3-point technique, one of which happened to him.
“When you’re on the bone with your thumb you can feel that liquid traveling along the bone,” he said. “It can travel all the way to the midline pupil where the levator palpebrae superioris muscle is. I now don’t come in contact with bone with my corrugator origin injections, but rather float the needle a couple of millimeters off bone (in muscle) to hopefully prevent that from happening. Alternatively, some people will compress the brow along frontal bone lateral to that corrugator injection site while they’re injecting to prevent backflow of the neuromodulator.”
Dr. Green reported having received research funding and/or consulting fees from many device and pharmaceutical companies.
SAN DIEGO – .
“Men generally have larger facial muscle mass,” Dr. Green, a dermatologist in Coral Gables, Fla., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We need a higher dose to treat them, or they will not be happy. In general, I try to increase the dose by about 50% for my male patients.”
Two early trials of dose adjustments support this practice, he said. In one, 80 men were randomized to receive a total dose of either 20, 40, 60, or 80 U of botulinum toxin type A (Botox) in the glabellar area. The researchers found that the 40, 60, and 80 U doses of botulinum toxin type A were consistently more effective in reducing glabellar lines than the 20 U dose.
In a subsequent study, researchers administered botulinum toxin type A (Dysport) 0.5 to 0.7 mL for men (60, 70, or 80 units), based on procerus/corrugator muscle mass. Efficacy was assessed by a blinded evaluator and patient self-evaluation at several time points up to 150 days post treatment. The median duration of effect was 109 days vs. 0 days for placebo in the blinded evaluator evaluation and 107 days vs. 0 for placebo in the patient self-evaluation.
Most injection algorithms for treating the glabella rely on a 5- or 7-point injection technique, but in 2021, researchers led by Sebastian Cotofana, MD, PhD, of the department of clinical anatomy at Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minn., reported results from a study of the efficacy and safety of a refined 3-point injection technique targeting horizontal and vertical lines to prevent brow ptosis.
“Prior to this study Sebastian asked me, ‘Why do you guys always inject the body of the muscle?’ ” Dr. Green said. “‘If you inject the origin of the muscle on bone, you could more effectively wipe out the entire muscle’s movement. You’re going to get a better result at a lower dose, so let’s study this.’”
The injection technique involves targeting the midline level of the connecting line between left and right medial canthal ligaments with a 90-degree injection angle with bone contact, as well as the medial and inferior margin of eyebrows with a 45-degree injection angle in relation to midline with frontal bone contact. These three points are located inferior to the traditional (on-label) glabellar frown line injections used to treat the frontalis and the brow depressors.
The researchers used the 5-point glabellar line severity scale to evaluate the time of effect onset and the injection-related outcome 120 days after the treatment in 27 men and 78 women. They found that the onset of the neuromodulator effect occurred in an average of 3.5 days, and no adverse events such as eyebrow ptosis, upper eyelid ptosis, medial eyebrow ptosis, and lateral frontalis hyperactivity occurred during the study period.
“If you inject the origin of these muscles, you can get a brow lift with this technique by avoiding frontalis altogether,” Dr. Green said. “The caveat is, it’s so great at lifting the brows that if you treat the forehead, you may create a midline horizontal ‘shelf’ like I’ve never seen before, where the eyebrows elevate into an immobile superior frontalis.”
To avoid this when treating the forehead as well, he’s learned to split the dose of neuromodulator. “If I was injecting 5 units in the procerus before, I’ll do 2.5 units on nasal bone at the insertion of the muscle and then 2.5 units higher up in the traditional midline procerus injection site,” Dr. Green said.
“Same with the corrugators,” he continued. “Then, remember to inject more superficially in the lateral part, the tail of the corrugators, because the tail of the corrugators is inserting into the undersurface of the dermis. That’s why you see that skin puckering in the lateral brows when people frown. You’re pretty safe to chase that laterally if the brow’s already flat as in men, but I caution you [not] to do that in women, because you may flatten the brow.”
Dr. Green said that he is aware of two cases of lid ptosis from the 3-point technique, one of which happened to him.
“When you’re on the bone with your thumb you can feel that liquid traveling along the bone,” he said. “It can travel all the way to the midline pupil where the levator palpebrae superioris muscle is. I now don’t come in contact with bone with my corrugator origin injections, but rather float the needle a couple of millimeters off bone (in muscle) to hopefully prevent that from happening. Alternatively, some people will compress the brow along frontal bone lateral to that corrugator injection site while they’re injecting to prevent backflow of the neuromodulator.”
Dr. Green reported having received research funding and/or consulting fees from many device and pharmaceutical companies.
AT MOAS 2022
Ten recommendations for building and growing a cosmetic dermatology practice
SAN DIEGO – When Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, opened his own cosmetic dermatology practice in Stamford, Conn., in 2012, he sensed that he had his work cut out for him.
“I was a fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon who wanted to do aesthetics,” Dr. Ibrahimi, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, recalled during the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “I was in a geographic area that was new to me. I didn’t know any referring doctors, but I started to network and tried to grow my practice.”
Someone once told him that the “three As” of being a medical specialist are “Available, Affable, and Ability,” so he applied that principle as he began to cultivate relationships with physicians in his geographic area. “I told my referring doctors, ‘If you’re kind enough to send me Mohs cases, I’ll help you out if there’s something you don’t like doing, whether it’s a nail biopsy or treating male genital warts,’” he said. “You want to make it easy for doctors to refer to you, but you also want to make their lives easier.”
Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, offered . They include:
Know yourself. Do what you love to do, not what you feel like you should do. “Whatever you’re doing in your practice, it should be something that you’re passionate about and excited about,” he said. “I do a mix of Mohs surgery and procedural aesthetic dermatology. Most of my practice is shaped toward energy-based devices and laser procedures. Pick the things that you enjoy doing and try to deliver good results.”
Know your patients. When dermatologists who plan to open their own practice ask Dr. Ibrahimi what kind of laser they should buy, he typically responds by asking them to consider what procedures their patients are asking for. “Depending on where you are geographically and the economic profile of the community in which you practice, it can be a different answer,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “If you practice in the Northeast and do a lot of medical dermatology, it might mean getting a vascular laser to treat rosacea. If you’re in Southern California, treating pigment might be a bigger concern than treating rosacea.” The annual ASDS Survey on Dermatologic Procedures provides a snapshot of trends and can be useful for decision-making, he said.
Know your practice. “Make sure you are capable of entering the aesthetics field,” he advised. “You cannot have a practice that runs like the DMV, with people waiting 30 to 40 minutes to be seen.” Proper training of staff is also key and representatives from device and injectable companies can provide advice and support. As for marketing, some dermatologists hire a public relations agency, but Dr. Ibrahimi finds that the best source of his referrals is word of mouth. “If I do a good job taking care of patients, they will send their friends and family over to me, but social media is also important,” he said. Taking quality before-and-after photos, and obtaining consent from patients to use them online in educational posts is a good approach, he noted.
Know your market. When Dr. Ibrahimi first opened his practice, offering laser hair removal was not a priority because so many other dermatologists and medical spas in his area were already providing it. With time, though, he added laser hair removal to his menu of treatment offerings because “I knew that if my patients weren’t getting that service from me, they would be getting it from somewhere else,” he said. “Initially it wasn’t important for me, but as my practice matured, I wanted to make sure that I was comprehensive.”
Start cautiously. Think safety first. “I tell people that starting a cosmetic practice is like baseball: don’t try to hit home runs,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “Just aim for base hits and keep your patients happy. Make sure you deliver safe, good results.” This means knowing everything possible about the devices used in the office, because if the use of a laser is delegated to a staff member and a problem arises, “you have to know everything about how that device works so that you can troubleshoot,” he said. “A lot of problems that arise are from lack of intimacy with your device.”
Seek knowledge. Attend courses in cosmetic dermatology and read literature from journals like Dermatologic Surgery and Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, he advised. “People will see the success, but they won’t know how much hard work it takes to get there,” he said. “You have to develop your reputation to develop the kind of practice that you want.”
Understand the business of aesthetics. Most energy devices carry a steep price tag, and leasing or financing devices come with a monthly payment, he said. “Make sure that what you’re bringing in on that device is going to be sufficient to cover the monthly payment. With something like tissue microcoring, you don’t have to use that five times a day to cover that lease payment. But if you have a vascular laser, you probably need to be treating more than a couple patients per day to make that lease payment. If you can recover the amount the device costs in about a year, that’s going to be a good investment. Many devices come with consumables, so you have to remember that.”
Don’t be afraid to be unique/change directions. Becoming an early adopter of new technologies and procedures can make someone stand out. “Other providers feel more comfortable waiting to allow more data to come out about a new technology before they make a purchase,” he said. “But if you’re established and have a busy practice, that’s an opportunity that can draw people in.”
Have patience and realistic expectations. It’s smart to offer a variety of services, he said, such as medical or surgical dermatology in addition to cosmetic dermatology. “That’s going to help you through any kind of economic downturn,” he said. “Success depends on a lot of factors going right. Make sure you set short- and long-term goals.”
Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie, Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.
SAN DIEGO – When Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, opened his own cosmetic dermatology practice in Stamford, Conn., in 2012, he sensed that he had his work cut out for him.
“I was a fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon who wanted to do aesthetics,” Dr. Ibrahimi, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, recalled during the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “I was in a geographic area that was new to me. I didn’t know any referring doctors, but I started to network and tried to grow my practice.”
Someone once told him that the “three As” of being a medical specialist are “Available, Affable, and Ability,” so he applied that principle as he began to cultivate relationships with physicians in his geographic area. “I told my referring doctors, ‘If you’re kind enough to send me Mohs cases, I’ll help you out if there’s something you don’t like doing, whether it’s a nail biopsy or treating male genital warts,’” he said. “You want to make it easy for doctors to refer to you, but you also want to make their lives easier.”
Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, offered . They include:
Know yourself. Do what you love to do, not what you feel like you should do. “Whatever you’re doing in your practice, it should be something that you’re passionate about and excited about,” he said. “I do a mix of Mohs surgery and procedural aesthetic dermatology. Most of my practice is shaped toward energy-based devices and laser procedures. Pick the things that you enjoy doing and try to deliver good results.”
Know your patients. When dermatologists who plan to open their own practice ask Dr. Ibrahimi what kind of laser they should buy, he typically responds by asking them to consider what procedures their patients are asking for. “Depending on where you are geographically and the economic profile of the community in which you practice, it can be a different answer,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “If you practice in the Northeast and do a lot of medical dermatology, it might mean getting a vascular laser to treat rosacea. If you’re in Southern California, treating pigment might be a bigger concern than treating rosacea.” The annual ASDS Survey on Dermatologic Procedures provides a snapshot of trends and can be useful for decision-making, he said.
Know your practice. “Make sure you are capable of entering the aesthetics field,” he advised. “You cannot have a practice that runs like the DMV, with people waiting 30 to 40 minutes to be seen.” Proper training of staff is also key and representatives from device and injectable companies can provide advice and support. As for marketing, some dermatologists hire a public relations agency, but Dr. Ibrahimi finds that the best source of his referrals is word of mouth. “If I do a good job taking care of patients, they will send their friends and family over to me, but social media is also important,” he said. Taking quality before-and-after photos, and obtaining consent from patients to use them online in educational posts is a good approach, he noted.
Know your market. When Dr. Ibrahimi first opened his practice, offering laser hair removal was not a priority because so many other dermatologists and medical spas in his area were already providing it. With time, though, he added laser hair removal to his menu of treatment offerings because “I knew that if my patients weren’t getting that service from me, they would be getting it from somewhere else,” he said. “Initially it wasn’t important for me, but as my practice matured, I wanted to make sure that I was comprehensive.”
Start cautiously. Think safety first. “I tell people that starting a cosmetic practice is like baseball: don’t try to hit home runs,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “Just aim for base hits and keep your patients happy. Make sure you deliver safe, good results.” This means knowing everything possible about the devices used in the office, because if the use of a laser is delegated to a staff member and a problem arises, “you have to know everything about how that device works so that you can troubleshoot,” he said. “A lot of problems that arise are from lack of intimacy with your device.”
Seek knowledge. Attend courses in cosmetic dermatology and read literature from journals like Dermatologic Surgery and Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, he advised. “People will see the success, but they won’t know how much hard work it takes to get there,” he said. “You have to develop your reputation to develop the kind of practice that you want.”
Understand the business of aesthetics. Most energy devices carry a steep price tag, and leasing or financing devices come with a monthly payment, he said. “Make sure that what you’re bringing in on that device is going to be sufficient to cover the monthly payment. With something like tissue microcoring, you don’t have to use that five times a day to cover that lease payment. But if you have a vascular laser, you probably need to be treating more than a couple patients per day to make that lease payment. If you can recover the amount the device costs in about a year, that’s going to be a good investment. Many devices come with consumables, so you have to remember that.”
Don’t be afraid to be unique/change directions. Becoming an early adopter of new technologies and procedures can make someone stand out. “Other providers feel more comfortable waiting to allow more data to come out about a new technology before they make a purchase,” he said. “But if you’re established and have a busy practice, that’s an opportunity that can draw people in.”
Have patience and realistic expectations. It’s smart to offer a variety of services, he said, such as medical or surgical dermatology in addition to cosmetic dermatology. “That’s going to help you through any kind of economic downturn,” he said. “Success depends on a lot of factors going right. Make sure you set short- and long-term goals.”
Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie, Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.
SAN DIEGO – When Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, opened his own cosmetic dermatology practice in Stamford, Conn., in 2012, he sensed that he had his work cut out for him.
“I was a fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon who wanted to do aesthetics,” Dr. Ibrahimi, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, recalled during the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “I was in a geographic area that was new to me. I didn’t know any referring doctors, but I started to network and tried to grow my practice.”
Someone once told him that the “three As” of being a medical specialist are “Available, Affable, and Ability,” so he applied that principle as he began to cultivate relationships with physicians in his geographic area. “I told my referring doctors, ‘If you’re kind enough to send me Mohs cases, I’ll help you out if there’s something you don’t like doing, whether it’s a nail biopsy or treating male genital warts,’” he said. “You want to make it easy for doctors to refer to you, but you also want to make their lives easier.”
Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, offered . They include:
Know yourself. Do what you love to do, not what you feel like you should do. “Whatever you’re doing in your practice, it should be something that you’re passionate about and excited about,” he said. “I do a mix of Mohs surgery and procedural aesthetic dermatology. Most of my practice is shaped toward energy-based devices and laser procedures. Pick the things that you enjoy doing and try to deliver good results.”
Know your patients. When dermatologists who plan to open their own practice ask Dr. Ibrahimi what kind of laser they should buy, he typically responds by asking them to consider what procedures their patients are asking for. “Depending on where you are geographically and the economic profile of the community in which you practice, it can be a different answer,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “If you practice in the Northeast and do a lot of medical dermatology, it might mean getting a vascular laser to treat rosacea. If you’re in Southern California, treating pigment might be a bigger concern than treating rosacea.” The annual ASDS Survey on Dermatologic Procedures provides a snapshot of trends and can be useful for decision-making, he said.
Know your practice. “Make sure you are capable of entering the aesthetics field,” he advised. “You cannot have a practice that runs like the DMV, with people waiting 30 to 40 minutes to be seen.” Proper training of staff is also key and representatives from device and injectable companies can provide advice and support. As for marketing, some dermatologists hire a public relations agency, but Dr. Ibrahimi finds that the best source of his referrals is word of mouth. “If I do a good job taking care of patients, they will send their friends and family over to me, but social media is also important,” he said. Taking quality before-and-after photos, and obtaining consent from patients to use them online in educational posts is a good approach, he noted.
Know your market. When Dr. Ibrahimi first opened his practice, offering laser hair removal was not a priority because so many other dermatologists and medical spas in his area were already providing it. With time, though, he added laser hair removal to his menu of treatment offerings because “I knew that if my patients weren’t getting that service from me, they would be getting it from somewhere else,” he said. “Initially it wasn’t important for me, but as my practice matured, I wanted to make sure that I was comprehensive.”
Start cautiously. Think safety first. “I tell people that starting a cosmetic practice is like baseball: don’t try to hit home runs,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “Just aim for base hits and keep your patients happy. Make sure you deliver safe, good results.” This means knowing everything possible about the devices used in the office, because if the use of a laser is delegated to a staff member and a problem arises, “you have to know everything about how that device works so that you can troubleshoot,” he said. “A lot of problems that arise are from lack of intimacy with your device.”
Seek knowledge. Attend courses in cosmetic dermatology and read literature from journals like Dermatologic Surgery and Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, he advised. “People will see the success, but they won’t know how much hard work it takes to get there,” he said. “You have to develop your reputation to develop the kind of practice that you want.”
Understand the business of aesthetics. Most energy devices carry a steep price tag, and leasing or financing devices come with a monthly payment, he said. “Make sure that what you’re bringing in on that device is going to be sufficient to cover the monthly payment. With something like tissue microcoring, you don’t have to use that five times a day to cover that lease payment. But if you have a vascular laser, you probably need to be treating more than a couple patients per day to make that lease payment. If you can recover the amount the device costs in about a year, that’s going to be a good investment. Many devices come with consumables, so you have to remember that.”
Don’t be afraid to be unique/change directions. Becoming an early adopter of new technologies and procedures can make someone stand out. “Other providers feel more comfortable waiting to allow more data to come out about a new technology before they make a purchase,” he said. “But if you’re established and have a busy practice, that’s an opportunity that can draw people in.”
Have patience and realistic expectations. It’s smart to offer a variety of services, he said, such as medical or surgical dermatology in addition to cosmetic dermatology. “That’s going to help you through any kind of economic downturn,” he said. “Success depends on a lot of factors going right. Make sure you set short- and long-term goals.”
Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie, Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.
AT MOAS 2022
For optimal results, fractional RF microneedling requires multiple treatments
SAN DIEGO – , according to Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MD.
Most core fractional RF microneedling indications – acne scars, rhytides, skin tightening – require multiple treatments, Dr. DiGiorgio, a laser and cosmetic dermatologist who practices in Boston, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “That’s an important expectation to set for your patients,” she said. “You also want to select depth and density parameters based on pathophysiology of the condition being treated, and combination treatments always provide the best results. So, whether you’re treating someone for acne scars or rhytides, you want to treat them for their erythema or their dermatoheliosis. The same goes for skin tightening procedures.”
Many nonpolar and bipolar devices are available for use, most of which feature adjustable depths and energies. Tips can be insulated or noninsulated. Generally, the insulated tips are safer for darker skin types because the energy is not delivered to the epidermis. However, the Sylfirm X device from Benev has a noninsulated tip but is safe for all skin types because the energy is delivered from the tip of a conically shaped needle and moves proximally but never reaches the epidermis, said Dr. DiGiorgio. Continuous wave mode is used for tightening and wrinkles while pulsed mode is used for pigment and vascular lesions.
Treatment with most fractional RF microneedling devices is painful so topical anesthesia is required. Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses topical 23% lidocaine and 7% tetracaine. The downtime varies depending on which device is being used. For anesthesia prior to aggressive fractional microneedle RF treatments such as with the Profound RF for skin tightening, Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses a Mesoram needle with a cocktail of 30 ccs of 2% lidocaine with epinephrine, 15 ccs of bicarbonate, and 5 ccs of saline. “More aggressive RF procedures can result in bruising for 7 to 8 days,” she said. “It can be covered with makeup. Wearing masks during the COVID-19 pandemic have also helped patients cover the bruising.”
In her clinical experience, the ideal patient for skin tightening with fractional RF microneedling has mild to moderate skin laxity that does not require surgical intervention. “Nonsurgical treatments provide nonsurgical results,” she said. “If a patient comes in holding their skin back and there is a lot of laxity, this is not going to be the right treatment for that person.”
Dr. DiGiorgio offers fractional RF microneedling in the context of a full-face rejuvenation. She begins by addressing volume loss and dynamic rhytides with injectables prior to skin tightening devices such as fractional RF microneedling or ultrasound-based tightening devices such as Sofwave or Ulthera (also referred to as Ultherapy). “You can add an ablative fractional to target deeper rhytides or pigment-targeting laser to address their dermatoheliosis, which will enhance their results,” she said. “Finally, you can follow up with a thread lift two weeks after the microneedle RF to achieve greater skin tightening. If the thread lift is performed before the microneedle RF, you want to wait about 2 months because the microneedle RF can damage the thread.”
Despite the limited efficacy for tissue tightening with fractional RF microneedling, “it’s a good alternative to lasers, especially for darker skin types,” she said. “Combination treatments will always enhance your results.”
Dr. DiGiorgio disclosed that she is a member of the advisory board for Quthero. She is also a consultant for Revelle and has received equipment from Acclaro.
SAN DIEGO – , according to Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MD.
Most core fractional RF microneedling indications – acne scars, rhytides, skin tightening – require multiple treatments, Dr. DiGiorgio, a laser and cosmetic dermatologist who practices in Boston, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “That’s an important expectation to set for your patients,” she said. “You also want to select depth and density parameters based on pathophysiology of the condition being treated, and combination treatments always provide the best results. So, whether you’re treating someone for acne scars or rhytides, you want to treat them for their erythema or their dermatoheliosis. The same goes for skin tightening procedures.”
Many nonpolar and bipolar devices are available for use, most of which feature adjustable depths and energies. Tips can be insulated or noninsulated. Generally, the insulated tips are safer for darker skin types because the energy is not delivered to the epidermis. However, the Sylfirm X device from Benev has a noninsulated tip but is safe for all skin types because the energy is delivered from the tip of a conically shaped needle and moves proximally but never reaches the epidermis, said Dr. DiGiorgio. Continuous wave mode is used for tightening and wrinkles while pulsed mode is used for pigment and vascular lesions.
Treatment with most fractional RF microneedling devices is painful so topical anesthesia is required. Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses topical 23% lidocaine and 7% tetracaine. The downtime varies depending on which device is being used. For anesthesia prior to aggressive fractional microneedle RF treatments such as with the Profound RF for skin tightening, Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses a Mesoram needle with a cocktail of 30 ccs of 2% lidocaine with epinephrine, 15 ccs of bicarbonate, and 5 ccs of saline. “More aggressive RF procedures can result in bruising for 7 to 8 days,” she said. “It can be covered with makeup. Wearing masks during the COVID-19 pandemic have also helped patients cover the bruising.”
In her clinical experience, the ideal patient for skin tightening with fractional RF microneedling has mild to moderate skin laxity that does not require surgical intervention. “Nonsurgical treatments provide nonsurgical results,” she said. “If a patient comes in holding their skin back and there is a lot of laxity, this is not going to be the right treatment for that person.”
Dr. DiGiorgio offers fractional RF microneedling in the context of a full-face rejuvenation. She begins by addressing volume loss and dynamic rhytides with injectables prior to skin tightening devices such as fractional RF microneedling or ultrasound-based tightening devices such as Sofwave or Ulthera (also referred to as Ultherapy). “You can add an ablative fractional to target deeper rhytides or pigment-targeting laser to address their dermatoheliosis, which will enhance their results,” she said. “Finally, you can follow up with a thread lift two weeks after the microneedle RF to achieve greater skin tightening. If the thread lift is performed before the microneedle RF, you want to wait about 2 months because the microneedle RF can damage the thread.”
Despite the limited efficacy for tissue tightening with fractional RF microneedling, “it’s a good alternative to lasers, especially for darker skin types,” she said. “Combination treatments will always enhance your results.”
Dr. DiGiorgio disclosed that she is a member of the advisory board for Quthero. She is also a consultant for Revelle and has received equipment from Acclaro.
SAN DIEGO – , according to Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MD.
Most core fractional RF microneedling indications – acne scars, rhytides, skin tightening – require multiple treatments, Dr. DiGiorgio, a laser and cosmetic dermatologist who practices in Boston, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “That’s an important expectation to set for your patients,” she said. “You also want to select depth and density parameters based on pathophysiology of the condition being treated, and combination treatments always provide the best results. So, whether you’re treating someone for acne scars or rhytides, you want to treat them for their erythema or their dermatoheliosis. The same goes for skin tightening procedures.”
Many nonpolar and bipolar devices are available for use, most of which feature adjustable depths and energies. Tips can be insulated or noninsulated. Generally, the insulated tips are safer for darker skin types because the energy is not delivered to the epidermis. However, the Sylfirm X device from Benev has a noninsulated tip but is safe for all skin types because the energy is delivered from the tip of a conically shaped needle and moves proximally but never reaches the epidermis, said Dr. DiGiorgio. Continuous wave mode is used for tightening and wrinkles while pulsed mode is used for pigment and vascular lesions.
Treatment with most fractional RF microneedling devices is painful so topical anesthesia is required. Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses topical 23% lidocaine and 7% tetracaine. The downtime varies depending on which device is being used. For anesthesia prior to aggressive fractional microneedle RF treatments such as with the Profound RF for skin tightening, Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses a Mesoram needle with a cocktail of 30 ccs of 2% lidocaine with epinephrine, 15 ccs of bicarbonate, and 5 ccs of saline. “More aggressive RF procedures can result in bruising for 7 to 8 days,” she said. “It can be covered with makeup. Wearing masks during the COVID-19 pandemic have also helped patients cover the bruising.”
In her clinical experience, the ideal patient for skin tightening with fractional RF microneedling has mild to moderate skin laxity that does not require surgical intervention. “Nonsurgical treatments provide nonsurgical results,” she said. “If a patient comes in holding their skin back and there is a lot of laxity, this is not going to be the right treatment for that person.”
Dr. DiGiorgio offers fractional RF microneedling in the context of a full-face rejuvenation. She begins by addressing volume loss and dynamic rhytides with injectables prior to skin tightening devices such as fractional RF microneedling or ultrasound-based tightening devices such as Sofwave or Ulthera (also referred to as Ultherapy). “You can add an ablative fractional to target deeper rhytides or pigment-targeting laser to address their dermatoheliosis, which will enhance their results,” she said. “Finally, you can follow up with a thread lift two weeks after the microneedle RF to achieve greater skin tightening. If the thread lift is performed before the microneedle RF, you want to wait about 2 months because the microneedle RF can damage the thread.”
Despite the limited efficacy for tissue tightening with fractional RF microneedling, “it’s a good alternative to lasers, especially for darker skin types,” she said. “Combination treatments will always enhance your results.”
Dr. DiGiorgio disclosed that she is a member of the advisory board for Quthero. She is also a consultant for Revelle and has received equipment from Acclaro.
AT MOAS 2022
Hair supplements
in JAMA Dermatology in November 2022.
Drake and colleagues evaluated the safety and efficacy of nutritional supplements for treating hair loss. In a systematic database review from inception to Oct. 20, 2021, they evaluated and compiled the findings of all dietary and nutritional interventions for treatment of hair loss among individuals without a known baseline nutritional deficiency. Thirty articles were included, including 17 randomized clinical trials, 11 clinical trials, and 2 case series.
They found the highest-quality evidence showing the most potential benefit were for 12 of the 20 nutritional interventions in their review: Pumpkin seed oil capsules, omega-3 and -6 combined with antioxidants, tocotrienol, Pantogar, capsaicin and isoflavone, Viviscal (multiple formulations), Nourkrin, Nutrafol, apple nutraceutical, Lambdapil, total glucosides of paeony and compound glycyrrhizin tablets, and zinc. Vitamin D3, kimchi and cheonggukjang, and Forti5 had lower-quality evidence for disease course improvement. Adverse effects associated with the supplements were described as mild and rare.
In practice, for patients with nonscarring alopecia, I typically check screening labs for hair loss, in addition to the clinical exam, before starting treatment (including supplements), as addressing the underlying reason, if found, is always paramount. These labs are best performed when the patient is not taking biotin, as biotin has been shown numerous times to potentially be associated with endocrine lab abnormalities, most commonly thyroid-stimulating hormone, especially at higher doses, as well as troponin levels. Some over-the-counter hair supplements will contain much higher doses than the recommended 30 micrograms per day.
Separately, if ferritin levels are within normal range, but below 50 mcg/L, supplementation with Slow Fe or another slow-release iron supplement may also result in improved hair growth. Ferritin levels are typically rechecked 6 months after supplementation to see if levels of 50 mcg/L or above have been achieved.
Another point to consider before beginning supplementation is to educate patients about potential effects of supplementation, including increased hair growth in other areas besides the scalp. For some patients who are self-conscious about potential hirsutism, this could be an issue, whereas for others, this risk does not outweigh the benefit. Unwanted hair growth, should it occur, may also be addressed with hair removal methods including shaving, waxing, plucking, threading, depilatories, prescription eflornithine cream (Vaniqa), or laser hair removal if desired.
Our armamentarium for treating hair loss includes: addressing underlying systemic causes; topical treatments including topical minoxidil; oral supplements; platelet-rich plasma injections; prescription oral medications including finasteride in men or postmenopausal women or off-label oral minoxidil; and hair transplant surgery if warranted. Having this thorough review of the most common hair supplements currently available is extremely helpful and valuable in our specialty.
Dr. Wesley and Lily Talakoub, MD, are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. She had no relevant disclosures.
in JAMA Dermatology in November 2022.
Drake and colleagues evaluated the safety and efficacy of nutritional supplements for treating hair loss. In a systematic database review from inception to Oct. 20, 2021, they evaluated and compiled the findings of all dietary and nutritional interventions for treatment of hair loss among individuals without a known baseline nutritional deficiency. Thirty articles were included, including 17 randomized clinical trials, 11 clinical trials, and 2 case series.
They found the highest-quality evidence showing the most potential benefit were for 12 of the 20 nutritional interventions in their review: Pumpkin seed oil capsules, omega-3 and -6 combined with antioxidants, tocotrienol, Pantogar, capsaicin and isoflavone, Viviscal (multiple formulations), Nourkrin, Nutrafol, apple nutraceutical, Lambdapil, total glucosides of paeony and compound glycyrrhizin tablets, and zinc. Vitamin D3, kimchi and cheonggukjang, and Forti5 had lower-quality evidence for disease course improvement. Adverse effects associated with the supplements were described as mild and rare.
In practice, for patients with nonscarring alopecia, I typically check screening labs for hair loss, in addition to the clinical exam, before starting treatment (including supplements), as addressing the underlying reason, if found, is always paramount. These labs are best performed when the patient is not taking biotin, as biotin has been shown numerous times to potentially be associated with endocrine lab abnormalities, most commonly thyroid-stimulating hormone, especially at higher doses, as well as troponin levels. Some over-the-counter hair supplements will contain much higher doses than the recommended 30 micrograms per day.
Separately, if ferritin levels are within normal range, but below 50 mcg/L, supplementation with Slow Fe or another slow-release iron supplement may also result in improved hair growth. Ferritin levels are typically rechecked 6 months after supplementation to see if levels of 50 mcg/L or above have been achieved.
Another point to consider before beginning supplementation is to educate patients about potential effects of supplementation, including increased hair growth in other areas besides the scalp. For some patients who are self-conscious about potential hirsutism, this could be an issue, whereas for others, this risk does not outweigh the benefit. Unwanted hair growth, should it occur, may also be addressed with hair removal methods including shaving, waxing, plucking, threading, depilatories, prescription eflornithine cream (Vaniqa), or laser hair removal if desired.
Our armamentarium for treating hair loss includes: addressing underlying systemic causes; topical treatments including topical minoxidil; oral supplements; platelet-rich plasma injections; prescription oral medications including finasteride in men or postmenopausal women or off-label oral minoxidil; and hair transplant surgery if warranted. Having this thorough review of the most common hair supplements currently available is extremely helpful and valuable in our specialty.
Dr. Wesley and Lily Talakoub, MD, are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. She had no relevant disclosures.
in JAMA Dermatology in November 2022.
Drake and colleagues evaluated the safety and efficacy of nutritional supplements for treating hair loss. In a systematic database review from inception to Oct. 20, 2021, they evaluated and compiled the findings of all dietary and nutritional interventions for treatment of hair loss among individuals without a known baseline nutritional deficiency. Thirty articles were included, including 17 randomized clinical trials, 11 clinical trials, and 2 case series.
They found the highest-quality evidence showing the most potential benefit were for 12 of the 20 nutritional interventions in their review: Pumpkin seed oil capsules, omega-3 and -6 combined with antioxidants, tocotrienol, Pantogar, capsaicin and isoflavone, Viviscal (multiple formulations), Nourkrin, Nutrafol, apple nutraceutical, Lambdapil, total glucosides of paeony and compound glycyrrhizin tablets, and zinc. Vitamin D3, kimchi and cheonggukjang, and Forti5 had lower-quality evidence for disease course improvement. Adverse effects associated with the supplements were described as mild and rare.
In practice, for patients with nonscarring alopecia, I typically check screening labs for hair loss, in addition to the clinical exam, before starting treatment (including supplements), as addressing the underlying reason, if found, is always paramount. These labs are best performed when the patient is not taking biotin, as biotin has been shown numerous times to potentially be associated with endocrine lab abnormalities, most commonly thyroid-stimulating hormone, especially at higher doses, as well as troponin levels. Some over-the-counter hair supplements will contain much higher doses than the recommended 30 micrograms per day.
Separately, if ferritin levels are within normal range, but below 50 mcg/L, supplementation with Slow Fe or another slow-release iron supplement may also result in improved hair growth. Ferritin levels are typically rechecked 6 months after supplementation to see if levels of 50 mcg/L or above have been achieved.
Another point to consider before beginning supplementation is to educate patients about potential effects of supplementation, including increased hair growth in other areas besides the scalp. For some patients who are self-conscious about potential hirsutism, this could be an issue, whereas for others, this risk does not outweigh the benefit. Unwanted hair growth, should it occur, may also be addressed with hair removal methods including shaving, waxing, plucking, threading, depilatories, prescription eflornithine cream (Vaniqa), or laser hair removal if desired.
Our armamentarium for treating hair loss includes: addressing underlying systemic causes; topical treatments including topical minoxidil; oral supplements; platelet-rich plasma injections; prescription oral medications including finasteride in men or postmenopausal women or off-label oral minoxidil; and hair transplant surgery if warranted. Having this thorough review of the most common hair supplements currently available is extremely helpful and valuable in our specialty.
Dr. Wesley and Lily Talakoub, MD, are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. She had no relevant disclosures.